One protein in your body deserves credit for maintaining your skin’s firmness, elasticity and moisture: collagen. Because these qualities are often associated with youthfulness, collagen is also a popular ingredient in dietary supplements and beauty products.

As you age, the quality and volume of the collagen that you produce decline.

“Combined with the long-term effects of sun exposure, this can cause skin to thin, have poor elasticity and develop wrinkles,” said Amanda Rosenthal, MD, a Cedars-Sinai dermatologist and Mohs micrographic surgeon. “Studies have shown that exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) rays in sunlight can severely damage existing collagen, which then impairs the production of new collagen. It’s a vicious cycle.”

Oral dietary supplements and topical beauty products that contain collagen may sound appealing to people who have heard collagen is responsible for maintaining the texture and quality of the skin.

“While there is some science to support the use of oral collagen supplements, there is no definitive literature that proves ingesting collagen can reverse the signs of aging,” Rosenthal said.

There are more effective anti-aging products available, but oral collagen supplements shouldn’t cause health issues.

“I usually tell patients, ‘If this is something you’re interested in trying and it makes you feel good, there’s likely little harm associated with oral collagen supplements. But I don’t take collagen,’” Rosenthal said.

However, don’t spend money on topical creams, gels or other beauty products that list collagen as the main ingredient, even if influencers swear by them.

“To my knowledge, I don’t think there’s any data to support the use of topical collagen, and I would spend your money elsewhere,” said Rosenthal.

Read: How to Take Care of Your Skin

Instead of seeking products that contain collagen to improve the appearance of your skin, consider beauty products that contain vitamin C. Or get a prescription for tretinoin, a form of retinoic acid derived from vitamin A.

“Retinoid use has actually been shown to improve collagen synthesis at the level of the dermis,” Rosenthal said. “And it helps the epidermis, the top layer of skin, by increasing cell turnover, thereby improving discoloration and ‘sun spots.’”

Retinoids can cause skin redness and irritation until your skin gets used to the medication. With time, your skin will build tolerance, and you should be able to use tretinoin nightly without too much discomfort.

“Routine use of a retinoid has been shown to improve visible signs of photoaging,” Rosenthal said.

Vitamin C serum also has been shown to improve overall skin health. Topical products containing vitamin C should be applied during the daytime, as vitamin C both protects your skin from the sun and protects your collagen.

“Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps protect your skin from harmful UV rays. There also is some evidence to support that vitamin C can improve existing collagen and increase collagen synthesis,” Rosenthal said.

Dermatologists can prescribe retinoids or recommend specific vitamin C products for patients who are interested in adding these tools to their skincare routine.

“You need a high-quality vitamin C serum. The cheap stuff doesn’t work, unfortunately,” Rosenthal said. “We encourage patients to speak with their dermatologist about any and all anti-aging concerns. We have a wide array of injectables, devices and procedures intended to reverse visible signs of aging and sun damage.”

Read: Why Am I Breaking Out?

If you want your skin to look fresh and supple, limit the time you spend in the sun and apply sunscreen every day.

“The most important thing for an anti-aging skincare routine is sun protection, hands down,” Rosenthal said. “We know the sun damages collagen. If you’re not going to be vigilant with sun protection, then it doesn’t matter what else you’re doing.”

A combination of skincare products may reduce the risk of collagen damage, helping you achieve younger-looking skin. None of the recommended products actually contain collagen.

“Vitamin C during the day, tretinoin at night, sunscreen and a basic fragrance-free moisturizing cream are the Holy Grails of anti-aging,” Rosenthal said.

• What is the role of collagen in skin health?
  • Collagen is a vital protein that maintains your skin’s firmness and elasticity.
• Do collagen supplements improve skin health?
  • The effectiveness of collagen supplements is difficult to determine due to concerns about absorption and a lack of long-term studies.
• What are better alternatives to collagen supplements?
  • Topical treatments such as tretinoin and vitamin C are clinically proven to improve collagen synthesis and improve skin health.
• How can I maintain healthy skin?
  • Applying sunscreen and moisturizing cream every day are essential for maintaining healthy skin.
• How can I learn more about ways to improve my skin’s health and appearance?
  • A healthcare provider such as a dermatologist can help you determine the optimal skincare routine for keeping your skin healthy.